OUR HOSTS:
OVERVIEW:
Our filosofia provides the foundation for every selection we have made in curating this trip. A rigorously high standard of hospitality, authenticity, and quality has been applied and upheld for each collaborator you will have the pleasure of interacting with. With close to 30 years of experience in Italy, near native fluency in Italian and a massive virtual rolodex at his disposal, Leif has not taken any choice lightly when crafting Campania Nascosta. Each and every stay, meal, experience, and winery has been tested in person—in some cases several times. Many of our hosts are not just partners in business, they are Leif’s trusted friends and at times basically extended family who he has known for many years. The mission on-trip is to make you the traveler feel like famiglia in a genuine and unforgettable way. Our sincere hope at FireTrails is that the memories you take home are as much about the people as the food, wine and experiences.
ACOMMODATIONS:
Santa Chiara Boutique Hotel, Napoli (Night one):
From the first moment we walked in to do some recon, it was clear this was the ideal spot for us to gather in Napoli. SCBH sits in the very heart of the centro storico, on what is known as the Spaccanapoli, the ‘Naples splitter’, which seems to divide the city in two parts when viewed from above. The hotel encompasses upper floors in a meticulously restored 17th century palazzo called Tufarelli. We will have 8 of the 10 rooms, which are all fabulous, for our one night stay. One of the most dramatic features of the property is the stunning roof terrace, the site of our welcome aperitivo. The hotel is not just beautiful, it is recognized for outstanding old world hospitality. We are thrilled to kick off our journey at this gorgeous, singular location.
Taverna del Capitano, Nerano (Nights two and three):
Our initial visit to TDC was in September of 2019. It captivated our hearts immediately and now we can’t stop returning. The Caputo family has operated this tiny seaside oasis of hospitality, fine wine and outstanding cuisine since 1967. All our beautiful guest rooms face the Mediterranean on this tranquil section of the coast south of all the chaos of the Costiera Amalfitana. We will have a casual dinner in the bistro the first night and a tasting menu from Chef Alfonso in the Michelin-starred restaurant the second night. Alfonso’s sister Mariella, who was the very first sommelier in Campania, handles their celebrated wine program and will select pairings for us. Every time we send friends or family to stay and dine at TDC, they can’t find the proper words to describe their experience with this lovely family. We can’t wait for you to follow suit.
Masseria Astapiana, Vico Equense (Night four):
We were dead set on being in VE one night for the experience at Peppe Guida’s Villa Rosa. The only issue was finding a nearby property that could accommodate our group, not the simplest task. This area feels remote even though it is very close to Sorrento, and there aren’t a lot of options for hotels. Driving around with no idea where we would end up, we saw some potential candidates, but they were all much too small. Then, out of nowhere, a sign appeared at the start of a narrow, steep path leading even higher into the precipitous hills above Vico Equense. Past lush olive groves and a very narrow entrance way, we settled in a large courtyard surrounded by impeccably manicured grounds with breathtaking views and ancient structures. Upon entering, we were informed that this was a monastery from 1604 that had been converted into an agriturismo and a site for events. Ta-da! We found our spot! Staying here is a journey back in time we are so excited to share with you.
Tenuta Pezzapane, Alvignanello (Nights five and six):
My great friend and gifted winemaker Giovanni Piccirillo took me to visit his friend Francesco Farina at his property Pezzapane in 2021. The agriturismo had recently opened and I was blown away. Set off the road, the Tenuta sits on seven pristine hectares of vines, trees and gardens. The structure itself fuses rustic charm with modern flourishes in a natural, not obnoxious way. When I asked Francesco if he would consider hosting us, he was overcome with joy. His attention to detail and exquisite taste permeate everything at Pezzapane. You may find yourself making your way back here. Our first night you have dinner on your own and one option would be to keep it simple and enjoy the fantastic food and wine on site. We will occupy 8 of the 12 rooms during our stay.
CUISINE:
OVERVIEW:
It is not an exaggeration to consider Campania among the best places on the planet to eat and drink.
Staggeringly good produce cultivated in volcanic soil, a vast array of delicious seafood, some of Italy’s finest wines and most prized dry pasta render this place an enogastronomic playground.
Our principles when choosing what cucine to offer are steadfast and rooted in those most Italians live by every day:
The star of the show is always the prima materia, the base ingredients. Not the chef. No human can make great food from mediocre ingredients.
Ingredients should always reflect place and time. Italy is hyper-local. Eat what is in season and from where your feet are.
Farming and the raising of animals should always be conducted with great respect and reverence. Being good stewards is of paramount importance. Sustainability, organics and biodynamics should not just be marketing jargon.
Our mission with curating dining experiences is to offer a mix of simple (never a pejorative in Italy) but impeccably executed food along with some peaks of haute cuisine, or cucina ricercata. Some of the best pizza in Napoli will get us going on night one while our lunches on Ischia and Capri days two and three will exalt the best from these fairy tale islands. Dinners at Taverna del Capitano and Villa Rosa are destined to send seductive shockwaves through your palate. In Alta Campania lunches at Le Campestre and Da Midduccia highlight the finest in cucina povera and our finale dinner at Francesco’s country house is always showstopping. We have intentionally kept a few tricks up our sleeve too, just to keep you on your toes.
Taverna del Capitano
Villa Rosa
WINERIES:
OVERVIEW:
As stated above, Campania is without a doubt one of the most celebrated regions of the boot for wine. Rossi made from Piedirosso and Aglianico offer a range of styles from pretty, elegant and transparent Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio to powerful, opaque and chewy Taurasi. Delicious Rosati made from the same grapes are phenomenal in the summer heat. However, it is the Bianchi that reach dizzying heights here and are often also capable of aging gracefully for decades in the right vintages. Biancolella from Ischia, Falanghina from all over the region, Fiano and Greco from the Avellino and Benevento areas, Pallagrello Bianco from Alta Campania and Caprettone from Vesuvio are some of my favorite white wines in all of Italy. The three producers we will visit are recognized as benchmarks for their respective sub-zones, producing wines of great substance, immediate pleasure and potential for long cellaring.
Cenatiempo, Ischia:
Pasquale and Federica are crafting stratospherically good wines from their many vineyards scattered across Ischia. Generally considered to be the finest producer of local whites Biancolella and Forestera, Cenatiempo also houses a veritable museum of ancient wine in the form of massive caves dug underneath a vineyard where they host visits. We will not only enjoy a full tasting of their outstanding bottlings accompanied by lunch prepared by a local private chef, there will be an opportunity to learn about and see how wine was made before all the conveniences of modern production.
Cantine Villa Dora, Vesuvius:
Vincenzo Orabona has ushered in a new era at this incredible estate inside the national park of the infamous volcano that destroyed Pompei in 79 AD. Vincenzo’s uncle (also Vincenzo!) established Villa Dora in 1997, the centerpiece being ungrafted old vines of Caprettone, Falanghina and Piedirosso planted in volcanic sand. Many wine professionals in Europe and the US are now discovering these mind blowing bottlings. Some older vintages of the Vigna del Vulcano Bianco have been declared to be among Italy’s very finest white wines. We will have a chance to see these spectacular old vines, and taste current + library releases while enjoying a perfect lunch of local delicacies.
Cantine Alois, Pontelatone:
Massimo Alois is my mentor. Since my father passed several years ago, he has become even more of a reference point for me. This trip would not even be remotely possible without his eternal generosity, guidance and steadfast support. Many of the collaborators we have chosen to work with I met through Massimo. He is an elite connector of people and a tireless promoter of his territorio. We have now known each other for almost a decade and we can’t imagine not spending time together every year. Visiting Alois, we will witness their life’s work of producing a world class white wine from the mostly unknown varietal Pallagrello Bianco through a visit to the Cru vineyard site, see perhaps the world’s best collection of soils Massimo has painstakingly accumulated, and taste other fascinating wines made from indigenous grapes Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia, grown only in this small pocket of Alta Campania.
EXPERIENCES:
OVERVIEW:
It was crucial for us to not design simply a ‘wine trip’ which wouldn’t appeal to someone nonplussed with that scene. Yes, we are in Italy. Yes, wine is a fundamental building block of the culture. Yes, we will be tasting, drinking and learning about wine. However, that is not the focus nor the ultimate point of this tour.
Campania Nascosta is the discovery of a region across culture, history, art, and of course vino e cucina. Our experiences are set up to provide a cross-section view of a region we can’t stop going back to. They are also designed to be active but accessible. We will be moving around, but the pace will never be strenuous. You can choose to engage with the trip in a variety of ways. At many points physical activity is strictly up to you. If you need a dolce far niente (sweet doing nothing) day, that is highly encouraged and facilitated. No matter what, the idea is to be intentionally present, soaking up fully each and every second.
Capri by Boat:
Our encounters on Capri have been varied. During the high season, literally thousands of tourists take the ferry to spend a day on this eternally alluring island. Battling the congestion and chaos of narrow streets and tight piazzas is not our idea of a good time. On the other hand, this place is famous for a reason. If you catch it in the right moment, it can cast a powerful spell impossible to shake. The caves and rocky spires, the crystalline water, the white blocky architecture, the deceptively simple but enchanting food. It has the ability to captivate completely. From our experience the two ways to do Capri properly are either to stay the night (the vast majority of tourists board the ferry back to Naples in the evening) or to experience it during the day, but by private boat, which will be our primary activity the third day.
On Tuesday, we will first lead an optional early morning hike to a hidden cove near Nerano. Anyone who doesn’t join can relax at the hotel for a leisurely breakfast or perhaps pass some time at their private beach on the marina. Late in the morning, we will board the boat right from the pier near the hotel and set our sights on Capri, which is not far away. If the conditions are right we can check out the famous Grotta Azzurra as we start our orbit around the island, and those who wish can certainly enjoy the calm, warm water of the Mediterranean. Making our way to the back side, we will stop for a delicious lunch at Marina Piccola, which most tourists who arrive on the ferry never see. Back on the boat, the route home to Nerano will take us through iconic rock spires, the faraglioni, and a quick history lesson about the infamous emperor Tiberius, who exiled himself permanently to Capri in 26 AD. Our magical day at sea will conclude with a bang as we indulge in the tasting menu at the Taverna with Mariella’s wine pairings.
Path of the Gods:
Once you do the POTG, every other walking experience in the wild will have a hard time competing. It really is that stunning. Wednesday morning after breakfast at the Taverna, we will first make our way to the village of Praiano on the Amalfi Coast for a quick visit to see how artisanal Limoncello is made in Gusto della Costa’s tiny laboratorio. Climbing the steep cliffs in our van, the walk will then begin from Bomerano, perched high above the sea. The hike to Nocelle, nestled above Positano, is moderate and less than 5 km long, so we will not be in a hurry, stopping to snack along the way. Even the dramatic images here on our site don’t do it justice. This is one for the ages, an unforgettable stroll in the footsteps of Gods and Goddesses.
Villa Rosa Scuola di Cucina:
Even if you haven’t seen Ep.3 of the Netflix series Chef’s Table Noodles profiling him, you have perhaps heard of Peppe Guida. His celebrated Vico Equense restaurant, Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa is on the radar of many globetrotting foodies and he has been written and talked about extensively in relation to Campania’s reassertion among the most compelling places on the planet to eat and drink. Yes, we could have just taken the group to the Osteria and called it good, and we doubt anyone would have complained. But as our guy Emeril is wont to say, “We gotta take it up a notch!” Villa Rosa is part organic orchard, part laboratorio, part secluded restaurant and cooking school. Our first time eating here in 2019 was a revelation. Every single dish that landed was a master class in essential flavor, each ingredient expressing itself fully. We will arrive in the early evening after our epic experience on the path of the gods, just in time to select our own produce from Peppe’s orchard to learn how to make his version of caponata, a delicious sort of eggplant relish mostly associated with Sicilia. Afterward, we will relocate to their absolutely breathtaking dining area to enjoy an endless procession of Nonna Rosa’s country classics.
Herculaneum + Ancient Museum of Capua:
Our two primary historical moments of the trip justifiably focus on tales of the ancients. Neither Herculaneum nor the Museum of Capua are widely known or on must-do lists for those visiting Campania, which made them primary targets for our mission to seek out the compelling fringes. Although Herculaneum, now a UNESCO heritage site, was destroyed by the same eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD that leveled Pompei, it has the reputation of being better preserved due to its primary exposure to pyroclastic flows. It is also smaller, more intimate and less overrun by crowds. Our experience here will be led by one of the most respected guides in the region. It is a shame the Museum of Capua isn’t more widely known. Established in the late 1800s, it surveys the history and archeology of the area from prehistoric times through the Roman period. Sitting on the famous Via Appia from Rome, Capua was an important outpost of the empire and eventually the site of the famous slave revolt led by Spartacus. Here again, we will be guided on our journey by one of the leading local experts of antiquity.
Conciato Romano + Mimmo il Casolare:
Formaggio anyone? Among the panoply of gastronomic delights indigenous to Campania, are some of Italy’s most unique and delectable cheeses. Both of our cheese focused visits feature products not found anywhere else on the peninsula, each inextricably linked to this mythical region. We will spend most of Day 6 at Le Campestre, a family run agriturismo in a remote corner of Alta Campania. They are recognized as the optimal place to discover conciato romano, the oldest cheese in the world. The wonderful journal of gastronomy, La Cucina Italiana did this outstanding piece on Manuel and his family.
At Le Campestre we will have a true Giornata in Campagna, a lovely day in the country. After roaming the farm, seeing the animals and cheese lab, we will all get to make our own conciato and then proceed to have an unforgettable lunch on the property.
When I first met Mimmo at a presentation in Caserta of the Netflix Pizza episode on Franco Pepe and his iconic pizzeria Pepe in Grani (available as an option for your dinner on night 5), it all felt a bit surreal. Here was Franco, pouring his heart out about the family drama that ensued when he left the ancestral, eponymous pizzeria in Caiazzo to follow his own pie dreams. And there was Mimmo, a life size Mario, seemingly always smiling and gregariously sampling me on his life altering Mozzarella di Bufala, which Franco utilizes exclusively. The dream now comes full circle as we will make the pilgrimage to Il Casolare, Mimmo’s caseificio (cheese making site) to see how these magical balls are constructed and taste them hot off the presses. Our last experience before our farewell lunch in Caserta is sure to leave an indelible mark, or at least keep you satisfied until we break bread for the last time together on the trip at Da Midduccia.
