STORIA E FILOSOFIA:
STORIA:
Ever since I started living in Umbria in 1997 to study Italian, people would come to visit me: family, friends, friends of friends... friends of family. More than anything, it gave me an excuse to explore new destinations: Deruta, Spello and Cinque Terre with my mom, Roma and Sardegna with my brothers and my late father, Puglia with friends from school in Perugia, the Amalfi Coast with my best friend from high school, to name just a few of the countless excursions.
Eventually, I became a lot of people’s de facto resource when they were looking for advice on touring the country. I just never really conceived of it as something I could do for a living until 2011. The big housing crash had happened and I suddenly found myself without a job and with very few prospects. That was scary.
Somehow I got linked up with a guy who was working as a professional guide in Italy for a company called Butterfield & Robinson and suggested I apply since I met many of the base requirements for the position. Things moved fast and before long, there I was, back in Italy leading groups on trekking tours to the Costiera Amalfitana and cycling trips to Umbria, Toscana and Piemonte.
Although I only did it for one year, the concept stuck with me. I returned to the states and moved back to San Francisco a second time (my first stint was in the early 2000s) where I built a very successful career in wine sales, mainly focusing on Italian wine, of course. The trips back and forth to Italy accumulated, until I built up a sizable network of friends across regions who became more than friends, they truly became my famiglia italiana.
Now I had legit game—street cred. When I started taking more friends and family over, the experiences ratcheted up to a level I hadn’t imagined possible, to the point that I would routinely be asked: “Why don’t you start running your own trips?”
In 2024 I finally had enough pestering and I set out to create my own tour and consulting company; Fire Trails Italy was born. It is my great pleasure to now share with you the people, places, experiences and, of course, the vino e cucina that has enriched and made my life more fulfilling than I ever could have dreamed. We truly would be honored to lead you on an adventure of a lifetime. What are you waiting for?
Andiamo!



FILOSOFIA:
It is no secret that Italy possesses some of the most highly localized and varied eno-gastronomical delights that the planet has to offer. There is certainly no shortage of tour operators promising “authentic” food and wine experiences.
We believe, however, that it isn’t that simple to enjoy the very best the country currently has to offer. This has become increasingly true due to cultural and economic homogenization and the ever increasing proliferation of products in the lifestyle (travel, experiences, fine dining, wine, et al.) space. Our goal with every trip and every visit is to uphold a rigorous standard of quality, hospitality, and respect for the land. Often, the most compelling destinations are not the most famous or prestigious, nor the most talked about or featured in travel media.
To wit, we seek to collaborate with:
Small hotels and agriturismi who offer outstanding hospitality and what the Italians call l’accoglienza, or the art of making guests feel (more than) welcome and special.
Wine producers, grape growers, cheese makers, farmers, restaurateurs, and artisans who have the utmost respect for primary materials and who adhere to processes that have only the highest quality results in mind, often with low priority given to the bottom line. In short, people who see what they do as their life’s work.
Humans who recognize that we only have a short time to be on earth and, therefore, should always strive to be good stewards of the land with which we have been entrusted so that future generations can enjoy it as we have.
MEET YOUR GUIDES:
Leif Engberg
Founder & Lead Guide
San Francisco, Calif.
In hindsight, the creation of FireTrails was inevitable—the culmination of a passion smoldering for almost thirty years. Smelling only jet fuel on the tarmac at Fiumicino, circa June 1997, without having ever glimpsed an iconic monument or tried cacio e pepe—let alone know what it was—Leif instantly felt that Italy was his place, his calling.
With encouragement from his ever-supportive mother and new mentor/professor at the University of Oregon (who graciously overlooked his lack of previous study in Italian), Leif enrolled in an intensive summer language program in Perugia, capital of Umbria.
After two fast paced weeks in the program, and against sturdy counsel from his academic advisor (“What do you expect to do with a degree in Italian?”), Leif ultimately chose to pursue a B.A. in Italian language and eventually an M.A. from the University of Wisconsin, Madison in Italian literature and cinema. Eschewing a more obvious track in academia, his path instead led to gastronomy and wine.
Upon return from a second stint studying in Florence, Italy, with Syracuse University, Leif stood pleading with Beppe in Eugene, Oregon, to give him a job as a busboy—again without prior experience—at Beppe & Gianni’s, a newly opened restaurant (still going strong!). From these meager beginnings, He worked in many phenomenal wine bars and restaurants in Manhattan and San Francisco, picking up every crumb of knowledge that he could along the way. After taking 2011 to guide cycling tours in Italy for Butterfield & Robinson, hospitality segued into a still active career in wine sales specializing in Italian wine.
Over the years Leif has represented many of the most outstanding Italian growers and producers (too many to name!), telling their stories and placing their wines in the best (not always Italian) shops and restaurants in the Bay Area: Acquerello, A16, Altovino, Sociale, Biondivino, Che Fico, State Bird Group, Flatiron, Swirl on Castro, Trattoria Contadina, Delfina, Kitchen Istanbul, Flour + Water, Piccino, Dig, Ungrafted, Waterbar, Cotogna/Quince, La Ciccia, Perbacco, Arlequin, Birba and so many more. Leif says, “It never gets old shooting a message to a producer, feeling their unbridled satisfaction about one of their wines being poured halfway across the world in a city of their dreams.”
Leif currently resides with his partner Beatriz, their cat Penelope and bunny Jotaro on Telegraph Hill in San Francisco. When he isn’t pouring wine and cooking with friends, you can find him watching old movies, hitting the ski slopes in the winter, on a bike when it isn’t raining and in the wild whenever possible.
Ci vediamo in Italia!
HeatherLyn Ernst
Guest Relations
Boulder, Colo.
"You may have the Universe if I may have Italy."
—Giuseppe Verdi
Italia has stolen her heart. Heather's first trip to Italy brought her to I Romiti, a restored 13th century Augustinian monastery turned B&B, replete with a Roman wall from 300 AD, in Fabbriche di Vallico, Toscana. The mountains, rivers and all the stones… cue the drama, history and storytelling.
Heather loves to dive in head first. She wants to know how, why and where lives were lived and babies born. Her preferred way to travel is slow, without many scheduled plans, leaving room to let the day unfold, taking in the rhythm of the people living there. Heather adores being swept away by new friends for a day filled with their hidden gems and preferred haunts. She finds herself returning to the same Italian cities and regions to visit her friends and deepen her relationships with local artisans and boutiques. Learning about their craft, micro-regional delicacies, wineries and enjoying simple osterie are new and endlessly interesting to her. Heather makes a point to collect paper, leather, jewelry and art upon each visit.
In her professional life, Heather's love for everything spa started in the early 2000s at Boulder’s Essentiel Spa as a massage therapist and nail technician. For 20 years, she has been the lead therapist of her maternity focused massage and doula practice—A Mellow Mood Spa for Mamas and their Families. Heather specializes in prenatal massage, attends birth as a doula and offers in-home mother care as an Ayurvedic Postpartum Doula.
If she is not traveling—journals, books, and camera in tow—you can find her playing in the Rocky Mountains or attending live music in Colorado's abundant music scene. Heather is also leaning into cooking and is currently taking Italian language lessons. She is married to her college sweetheart Eric, and they have two young adult daughters in sunny Boulder, Colorado.