OUR HOSTS:
SICILY OVERVIEW:
Our second edition of FireTrails takes us to the mythical island of Sicily. Join us as we explore the ancient cities of Catania and Palermo, lava laden vineyards on the eastern and northern slopes of Mt. Etna, the sparkling waters of the Aeolian islands and seaside gem Cefalù. Along the way experience why Sicily is on top of so many travel wish lists: some of the world’s finest vegetables, fruits and seafood, wonderfully warm Mediterranean hospitality, stunning wines from Mt. Etna and beyond, breathtaking beaches + crystal blue seas and an unrivaled mix of cultures.
ACOMMODATIONS:
Hotel Bastiò Suites, Catania (Night one):
Bastiò Suites is located in the heart of Catania's historic centre on Via Dusmet, which was once the entrance to the city for those coming by sea and now houses the exclusive fish market. Travelers and pilgrims passed through the 18th-century Porta Uzeda to catch an immediate glimpse of the Baroque splendor of Piazza Duomo within a few steps. The bare lava stone, barrel vaults, monochromatic walls and the cementina floors have been carefully reclaimed to be reborn in a new contemporary architectural vision. The hotel is not just beautiful, it is recognized for outstanding old world hospitality. We are thrilled to kick off our journey at this gorgeous, singular location.
Tenuta di Fessina, Mt. Etna (Nights two and three):
Fessina is one of Etna’s most respected producers of wine on the north slope. They also posses a spectacular facility for hosting groups smack in the middle of their estate vineyards. The rooms were painstakingly converted with impeccable taste from what was the original site of winemaking from the 17th century. We will have the property to ourselves during our stay.
Principe di Salina, Malfa (Nights four and five):
Salina, and specifically this property, inspired us to add a night to our standard six night trip model. Arriving in style on our chartered yacht to this jewel of the Aeolian islands, we will occupy the majority of this very small hotel and all of our rooms will be on an upper floor. We love this location so much, we have built our first evening upon arrival around spending quality time on site, including a very special dinner with just our group.
Nights six and seven:
In order to preserve some surprises we are holding back our selections for these nights in Cefalù and Palermo. Don’t hesitate to reach out with any specific questions regarding these stays. Rest assured, we have found properties which meet our rigorous standards of quality and hospitality.
CUISINE:
Now that we have spent a significant amount of time in Sicily, we can safely say that several of the most memorable meals we have eaten anywhere in the world have come here. Staggeringly good produce cultivated in volcanic soil, a vast array of delicious seafood, some of Italy’s finest wines, capers and Slow Food presidio ingredients render this place an enogastronomic playground.
Our principles when choosing what cucine to offer are steadfast and rooted in those most Italians live by every day:
The star of the show is always the prima materia, the base ingredients. Not the chef. No human can make great food from mediocre ingredients.
Ingredients should always reflect place and time. Italy is hyper-local. Eat what is in season and from where your feet are.
Farming and the raising of animals should always be conducted with great respect and reverence. Being good stewards is of paramount importance. Sustainability, organics and biodynamics should not just be marketing jargon.
Our mission with curating dining experiences is to offer a mix of simple (never a pejorative in Italy) but impeccably executed food along with some peaks of haute cuisine, or cucina ricercata.
WINERIES:
OVERVIEW:
In terms of wine, Sicily, arguably more than any other region in Italy in recent years, has been basking in the limelight. Industry folks, sommeliers and wine consumers across the globe have turned their attention to a wide array of compelling Sicilian varietals, sub zones, and iconic producers. Mt. Etna, with its ancient terraced vineyards of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Capuccio and Carricante usually lead the conversation, but lately other areas like Vittoria (especially the elegant and transparent wines made from Frappato and Nero d’Avola in the Cerasuolo appellation) and the zones around Palermo (particularly the fantastic wines made from Catarratto and Perricone) have received their due as well. Our trip, for good reason, will certainly focus on the wines of Etna, but we will also have a chance to see (and taste!) first hand the wonders of dry Malvasia from Salina and phenomenal bottles from the Monreale zone south of Palermo. Besides visiting some of the most interesting growers in person, our meals will afford us opportunities to explore the full spectrum of Sicilian wine production. Glasses of the island’s most sought after producers, including library vintages, will certainly be raised. Cin Cin!
Barone di Villagrande, Milo:
We have to drop a shout out to our friend Sam Bogue, wine director for the Flour + Water group here in SF, for turning us on to this outstanding producer. Grazie mille, Sam! The area around Milo, on the eastern slope of Mt. Etna, is the only zone on the volcano allowed to produce wine designated as Etna Bianco Superiore, and is widely considered the grand cru for the Carricante grape. Villagrande composes terroir-driven wines from their stunning terraced vineyards facing the sea. We are thrilled to commence our visits here!
Palmento Costanzo, Contrada Santo Spirito, Etna Nord:
We are a bit biased here, but these are unequivocally among the finest wines coming from Etna’s north slope (as well as their top white coming from Contrada Cavaliere on the SW slope). While many (we won’t name names!) of their famous neighbors have strangely pursued either a heavy handed approach in the cellar leading to oaky and disjointed wines, or trendy techniques associated with the natural wine movement which often lead to wild bottle variation and a plethora of noticeable flaws, Valeria Costanzo and her daughter Serena chart a path to pristine versions of Etna Rosso, Bianco, and Rosato by utilizing cement and large format neutral oak. As most great wineries preach, these are bottles which express the three most important facets of a top wine: place, varietal, and vintage.
Azienda Agricola Eolia, Salina:
If you have tasted a wine from the gorgeous Aeolian island of Salina, it more than likely was the sweet Malvasia di Lipari, which represents the vast majority of production here. Sweet wines, including this one, have their place on the table, but we find the dry bianchi made from the very same Malvasia grape to be far more compelling. Owners Luca and Natascia have established Eolia as the flagship house on the island for this style and produce the most outstanding versions from their estate vineyards strewn across the volcanic landscape of this dramatic place. Perhaps more than any other visit on our trip, we are ecstatic to introduce you to these singular expressions produced in minuscule quantities. We hope you end up loving them as much as we do.
Porta del Vento, Monreale:
Under the skilled craftsmanship of owner and winemaker Marco Sferlazzo, Porta del Vento has emerged as a beacon of excellence in Sicilian low-intervention winemaking. In 2005 Marco, formerly a pharmacist in Palermo, transitioned to grape-growing with a fervent dedication to high quality and organic/biodynamic farming. Disheartened by a farmer’s decision to uproot aging Perricone and Catarratto vines, Marco intervened by acquiring his vineyards and converting them to organic and biodynamic practices. Nestled at 2000 feet amidst the steep hills of Camporeale, a tiny village 25 miles south of Palermo, Porta del Vento commands a dramatic landscape characterized by Sicily’s extreme natural elements. Crafted with 100% Certified Organic grapes and Biodynamic methods, Porta del Vento's wines epitomize non-interventionist winemaking based on native-yeasts fermentations and concrete vats, offering their unique provenance and emotive qualities without interferences. Unfiltered and expressive, they offer a true reflection of Sicily's breathtaking beauty and Marco’s dedication.
EXPERIENCES:
It was crucial for us to not design simply a ‘wine trip’ which wouldn’t appeal to someone nonplussed with that scene. Yes, we are in Italy. Yes, wine is a fundamental building block of the culture. Yes, we will be tasting, drinking and learning about wine. However, that is not the focus nor the ultimate point of this tour.
Sicila Aperta is a wide ranging celebration of this spectacular region:
***Explore the internationally famous fish market of Catania
***Hike the north slope of Etna with FireTrails friend and master distiller Giuseppe
***Witness a Sicilian gin distillation demo with the Giovi team
***Ride a private yacht across the Aeolian islands, stopping for lunch on Vulcano
***Experience the wonders of Salina while tasting the best capers in the world with Sapori Eoliani
***Relax on the beach along the sparkling shores of Salina and Cefalù
***Discover Sicily’s heritage breed of pig: il Nero di Nebrodi
***Tour the bazaar like ancient markets of Palermo (and shop to your heart’s content!)
***Take a full immersion into aperitivo culture